Statements sometimes approximate ...
1) Leh - 51 km Upshi
Km 35 Km 51 Upshi
Karu, the crossroads of Manali and Tso Moriri. Go straight (slightly to the left) along the Indus that we follow up Mahe bridge. Leh Highway - Upshi being unpleasant, the ideal is to take a bus or a taxi and start pedaling Upshi
2) Upshi (3380m) - Chumathang (3560m)
(88 km / 500 m approx + / - 320 m approx )
Km 29 : Hymia village
Km 49: Gayk village
Km 54: Kiari (Kare), a military camp, not too possible to camp in the gorge.
Km 80: camping spot just before the village of Kidmang (Skidmang noted on some maps).
The route follows the Indus qqs climbs / descents. Paved throughout. A
Chumathang: restaurants, can find housing.
3) Chumathang - Puga Sumdo - Korzog
(82 km / + Approx 1340m / - approx 350m )
Km 11-12: qqs nice camping spots along the river Mahe
Km 22 bridge (approx 4100m), bridge over the Indus. Checkpoint before crossing the bridge. Not really possible to sleep there. Maybe ask the checkpoint option of going up town Mahe, 1 km away (without crossing the Indus)?
Km 25-26: Camping spots are still 3-4 km after the bridge, along the river before reaching a throat full of marmots. Do not get too close camps menders. Very nice. Also possible a little further, but less practical.
Km 37: Puga Sumdo (approx 4300m), crossing roads Tso Khar (straight) Moriri and Tso (left). Village official camping spot.
gradual ascent to the pass, the road becomes a track. A few loose stones before the pass is ... tar: The Namshang (approx 55-60 km, alt 4900m). Magnificent
descent on tarmac just under 5 km (up to approx 4700m alt).
Km approx 60-65: small lake (Tso Kiagar, approx 4700m), the trail passes to the left of the lake in contrast suggest that most maps. Sandy.
It is theoretically allowed to camp at the lake. Moriri and Tso and Tso Khar, duty camping spots in the official (and Korzog ???), but in practice, if you stop well away at dusk of the night, I do not know who would bother you. More than anywhere else it is super important to have a minimal impact as possible. Leave as little trace. Bury their droppings and remove everything else to burn it or throw it away. Beware of "wild asses" when wild camping in any area of TSOs and Morey Plains.
After the lake, the trail again, less and less good. It rises slightly, then down along a river that empties into the Tso Moriri that we begin to see the bottom, before clipping to qqs kms correct track.
Km 82: Korzog (4550m). Several guesthouses and homestays not too expensive (around 300 Rps the dble). The tent camps on the other hand cost a fortune. Can pitch a tent for 100 Rps. A good restaurant: Lake View. Better at not too late to have room.
Leh - Korzog to do in 3-4 days (probably playable 2 for cylistes sturdy and well acclimated, starting from Upshi and sleeping Chumathang).
4) Korzog (Tso Moriri) - Thukje (Tso Khar) : 60-65 k m-based driver jeep at least 70 or more from Sophia (meter HS), confirmed at first glance on the map Olizanne (85-90km according to Laura Stone in his book Himalaya by bike).
+ 1050m ca / - approx 950m , 2 passes over 4900m.
Karzog On leaving, we returned on his steps up to 45km Sumdo Puga (transition to Kiagar Namshang Tso and La - see above).
Just after the village of Sumdo, School of nomads on the right (possible to visit). Correct track, flat. Around km
50-55 (alt 4500m approx): Passing beautiful scenery, strong smell of sulfur. Plant operating sulfur was abandoned. Really rotten track (marl and sand).
Then climb to the pass. Road work (is being remade), so deviations from steep slopes and in poor condition. This will probably be less difficult when the road will completed (if it is a day ...).
Km approx 60-65: Polo Kongka La (4970m).
camps of nomads of the 2 sides of the neck. We can see herds of yaks, horses and sometimes some "wild asses". Then it descends
track but still rotten. The gravel gives way to sand almost to Thukje. Side orientation when you arrive at Tso Khar along the right (in fact I do not know if there is a road on the left, even if the card Olizanne in a note, I have not seen). A little before reaching Thukje, beautiful tar qqs hundreds of meters, it's good! 1
Dabh Jigmet held by his wife and explain to us that the nomads of the Valley come to spend the winter in the village (about sixty families apparently). Their houses empty at this season, serve homestay for tourists passing (150 Rps the mattress). Can pitch a tent for 100 Rps but the area is ideal medium. For camping, you'd better continue 5 km to the tent camp whose name I forget (take the track left at the exit of Thukje). To be housed in two locations (+ village camp), I think the passage through Thukje we have learned a lot about the life of nomads, but the food at the Dabh really is not terrible (the worst Veg Travel noodles!) when we had eaten well at camp. Beautiful ballad from 5 feet in a beautiful light. The scenery is splendid. Night under the stars on the roof of homestay (frost on the sleeping bag in the morning!).
Finally, we reached the jeep Morey Plains and the road to Manali.
Distances: Leh
- Karzog: 219 km
Karzog - Thukje (Tso Khar): 70-75 km
Thukje - Morey Plains - Pang: 51 km, Leh - Pang 340-345 km instead of 192 km through the Taglang
Thukje La. - The Taglang - Upshi - Leh: 162 km
can make a nice loop Leh - Tso Moriri - Tso Khar - Back to Leh via Taglang La, about 450-455 km in 7-8 days)
NB: we met a cyclo German could not pass checkpoint Upshi towards Tso Moriri because he was alone (though he had a permit). He has tried through the Taglang and Tso Khar. It was crossed between the two TSOs, no idea if he could go after.
1) Leh - 51 km Upshi
Km 35 Km 51 Upshi
Karu, the crossroads of Manali and Tso Moriri. Go straight (slightly to the left) along the Indus that we follow up Mahe bridge. Leh Highway - Upshi being unpleasant, the ideal is to take a bus or a taxi and start pedaling Upshi
2) Upshi (3380m) - Chumathang (3560m)
(88 km / 500 m approx + / - 320 m approx )
Km 29 : Hymia village
Km 49: Gayk village
Km 54: Kiari (Kare), a military camp, not too possible to camp in the gorge.
Km 80: camping spot just before the village of Kidmang (Skidmang noted on some maps).
The route follows the Indus qqs climbs / descents. Paved throughout. A
Chumathang: restaurants, can find housing.
3) Chumathang - Puga Sumdo - Korzog
(82 km / + Approx 1340m / - approx 350m )
Km 11-12: qqs nice camping spots along the river Mahe
Km 22 bridge (approx 4100m), bridge over the Indus. Checkpoint before crossing the bridge. Not really possible to sleep there. Maybe ask the checkpoint option of going up town Mahe, 1 km away (without crossing the Indus)?
Km 25-26: Camping spots are still 3-4 km after the bridge, along the river before reaching a throat full of marmots. Do not get too close camps menders. Very nice. Also possible a little further, but less practical.
Km 37: Puga Sumdo (approx 4300m), crossing roads Tso Khar (straight) Moriri and Tso (left). Village official camping spot.
gradual ascent to the pass, the road becomes a track. A few loose stones before the pass is ... tar: The Namshang (approx 55-60 km, alt 4900m). Magnificent
descent on tarmac just under 5 km (up to approx 4700m alt).
Km approx 60-65: small lake (Tso Kiagar, approx 4700m), the trail passes to the left of the lake in contrast suggest that most maps. Sandy.
It is theoretically allowed to camp at the lake. Moriri and Tso and Tso Khar, duty camping spots in the official (and Korzog ???), but in practice, if you stop well away at dusk of the night, I do not know who would bother you. More than anywhere else it is super important to have a minimal impact as possible. Leave as little trace. Bury their droppings and remove everything else to burn it or throw it away. Beware of "wild asses" when wild camping in any area of TSOs and Morey Plains.
After the lake, the trail again, less and less good. It rises slightly, then down along a river that empties into the Tso Moriri that we begin to see the bottom, before clipping to qqs kms correct track.
Km 82: Korzog (4550m). Several guesthouses and homestays not too expensive (around 300 Rps the dble). The tent camps on the other hand cost a fortune. Can pitch a tent for 100 Rps. A good restaurant: Lake View. Better at not too late to have room.
Leh - Korzog to do in 3-4 days (probably playable 2 for cylistes sturdy and well acclimated, starting from Upshi and sleeping Chumathang).
4) Korzog (Tso Moriri) - Thukje (Tso Khar) : 60-65 k m-based driver jeep at least 70 or more from Sophia (meter HS), confirmed at first glance on the map Olizanne (85-90km according to Laura Stone in his book Himalaya by bike).
+ 1050m ca / - approx 950m , 2 passes over 4900m.
Karzog On leaving, we returned on his steps up to 45km Sumdo Puga (transition to Kiagar Namshang Tso and La - see above).
Just after the village of Sumdo, School of nomads on the right (possible to visit). Correct track, flat. Around km
50-55 (alt 4500m approx): Passing beautiful scenery, strong smell of sulfur. Plant operating sulfur was abandoned. Really rotten track (marl and sand).
Then climb to the pass. Road work (is being remade), so deviations from steep slopes and in poor condition. This will probably be less difficult when the road will completed (if it is a day ...).
Km approx 60-65: Polo Kongka La (4970m).
camps of nomads of the 2 sides of the neck. We can see herds of yaks, horses and sometimes some "wild asses". Then it descends
track but still rotten. The gravel gives way to sand almost to Thukje. Side orientation when you arrive at Tso Khar along the right (in fact I do not know if there is a road on the left, even if the card Olizanne in a note, I have not seen). A little before reaching Thukje, beautiful tar qqs hundreds of meters, it's good! 1
Dabh Jigmet held by his wife and explain to us that the nomads of the Valley come to spend the winter in the village (about sixty families apparently). Their houses empty at this season, serve homestay for tourists passing (150 Rps the mattress). Can pitch a tent for 100 Rps but the area is ideal medium. For camping, you'd better continue 5 km to the tent camp whose name I forget (take the track left at the exit of Thukje). To be housed in two locations (+ village camp), I think the passage through Thukje we have learned a lot about the life of nomads, but the food at the Dabh really is not terrible (the worst Veg Travel noodles!) when we had eaten well at camp. Beautiful ballad from 5 feet in a beautiful light. The scenery is splendid. Night under the stars on the roof of homestay (frost on the sleeping bag in the morning!).
Finally, we reached the jeep Morey Plains and the road to Manali.
Distances: Leh
- Karzog: 219 km
Karzog - Thukje (Tso Khar): 70-75 km
Thukje - Morey Plains - Pang: 51 km, Leh - Pang 340-345 km instead of 192 km through the Taglang
Thukje La. - The Taglang - Upshi - Leh: 162 km
can make a nice loop Leh - Tso Moriri - Tso Khar - Back to Leh via Taglang La, about 450-455 km in 7-8 days)
NB: we met a cyclo German could not pass checkpoint Upshi towards Tso Moriri because he was alone (though he had a permit). He has tried through the Taglang and Tso Khar. It was crossed between the two TSOs, no idea if he could go after.
Kiagar Tso 
Route Tso Moriri 
Kiagar Tso 
Tso Moriri 
Tso Moriri 
Tso Moriri 
Tso Khar side Thukje 
Tso Khar 
Tso Khar 
Tso Khar 
Tso Khar, trace of the presence of the army ... 
Road between Tso Khar and Morey Plains 
Road between Tso Khar and Morey Plains 
Nomads Changpas 
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