When Doctor Green Mucus

Thiksey - Leh (twenty kilometers)

Not take notes. Approximately 7km climb very disagreeable before reaching Leh. Traffic not cool, qqs speeders to the con, lots of pollution. Difficult return to civilization. At large roundabout, you can follow "Leh market" (+ or - tt right a little to the left). Main street that climbs sec. We stopped in a guesthouse ("Nézel" or something like that) on this street on the left just after restaurant "Himalayan cuisine. 150Rps dble without the bathroom, a little dirty, then have changed. Otherwise, you can also exit from the roundabout just after the big prayer wheel, it goes directly onto Main Bazaar (it climbs perhaps less dry than the other side?).

Leh

There are many nice guesthouses in Upper Tukcha Road (left at Main Bazaar going back to Changspa), and also Changspa (but a little farther from the center). We stay at guesthouse Malpak, 200 the dbl with shared bath (very clean) and nice garden, 300Rps with bathroom in the room. Jigmet is the next most expensive but top (500 Rps). It is also not far from Ti-Sei is right. Better to arrive in the morning because of guesthouses bcp properties are complete (I guess that from September, there must be fewer people).



Qqs Recommended restaurants:
- Tibetan Kitchen on Fort Road, + + + + but must be reserved several days in advance for the evening! (Noon, no bp) (serves beer, very good Vegi cheese momos)
- Coffee Jeevan (The Book Lover's Retreat) left at the end of Changspa after the bridge, not far before the stupa, Vegetarian quality but no beer
- Grill 'n Curry: Indian great, right in front of Tibetan Kitchen (beer). Server likeable. Music sometimes a bit strong (but may be asked to drop). Our favorite (chicken malai tikka very good, excellent aluminum and Kashmiri pulao Vegi). Avoid
Shangrila yet recommended by Lonely Planet I think, really terrible. Nbx restaurants in gardens along Changspa, pleasant but not great food. Il Forno (balcony center) is not too bad. There is also

Wok Tibetan Kitchen on Main Bazaar (above Kodak) for Tibetan eat too much. Also barbecue skewers face Dzomsa evenings only (15Rps the skewer).

For pdj, we often went to the Pumpernickel German Bakery (terrace, large pdj with potatoes, omelet, toast, tea or coffee for 75Rps). It was discovered too late that Dzomsa in Old Fort Road was also a delicious breakfast for up to 3 francs 6 sous (Ladakhi bread for 2 rps !!!).

Concrete Block Bath Tub

Lato - Thiksey

54km / +200 m / - 840m

throat out of Lato is very nice.




Km 23: Upshi, small-town ugly crossroads (junction to Tso Moriri right). Nbx restaurants. Very hot (38-40 °! Quite a change after the 3-4 ° of the day!).
Approximately 8km climb and hilly road.
Km 37: Karo (shops, ISD / STD). Great military zone, still ugly. "Turn-off to the left Hemis. Road to Sakti (Taktok and Wari La / Pangong Tso and Changla) on the right (need a permit).

Desert landscape before reaching Thiksey

Km 54: Arrival Thiksey (3419m). The only hotel is on the bottom right of the entrance of the village (250 Rps dble with the bathroom).


prayers at the monastery in the early morning, cool, few tourists (they come later).
NB: I returned to Thiksey two weeks later, prayer room cafie tourists at 6:30 in the morning, we had come across a group, disappointing ...

Swollen Parotid From Alcholism

Tso Khar - Lato

73km / +800 m / - 1297m

And to think that the day before I wrote in my notebook that I had finally found the journey less difficult, more affordable than expected ...
Km 6: return Tso Khar junction track / road from Leh
Km 14: Debring, qqs ruin whose stones are collected to build the road, so do not count too much sleep there.
Km 16: Col
early

Km 29: Creek (alt 5113m)
Km 34: Taglang La (5320m)

Rising neck seemed interminable. Slept badly the night before I fell asleep from the 1st km. I stopped for 10 minutes sleep. The tar yields fast enough room for the trail becomes more and more rotten, the last miles are a little less worse. I had to push the bike in places. Arivée neck punctured to 16h, not even stopped for a photo! Sophie was waiting for 1h. Very cold on top, hat + gloves + sweater + jacket! Top
tarmac descent, a real treat.
Km 38: End of tar. Road construction, alternating good and less good track ...
2 km tar a little lower (km 43 to 45) and 2 km track really rotten before they finally find bitumen (more or less good).
Km 66: Rumtse, 2 guesthouses / homestays (250 Rps dbl the) roadside
Km 70: village of Gya, very nice

Photos coming

Km 73: Lato (4067m evening / morning 4036m !!!), a homestay family run very friendly. Pit toilets, can have a jump of hot water for showering. Very clean. 100Rps/pers.
End runs very cool, probably thanks to a beautiful late afternoon light. All downhill. Qqs kids who say "one pen", but not really pushy, look more intimidating.
The hardest day since the start despite the elevation not that important on paper!

Updated July 2009 : There is now a side dhaba Debring ...

Best Ruger 10 22 Upgrades

Pang - Tso Khar

46km / 327 m / - 267m

Hint caution before attacking the real thing:


7km climb out of tarmac to a small pass Pang ( alt 4724m), then great false flat down through the Morey Plains.

After whiskey, driving risky!

the small neck, 2 "roads" crossing the Plains, a + or - tarred and work on the left and super dusty track on the right. Choose the one you want ... We opted for tar, even if it does not last long, the trucks appeared to choose the right track. I had read horror stories almost on the crossing of the Plains, but whether the situation has greatly improved, there has to be accustomed to roads rotten! Tar spot left by the place packed to the track (maybe we were lucky, they had just "groom"?), Sometimes a bit of corrugated iron, stretches of sand qqs where you have to push the bike but I have not found it so terrible. A little wind anyway (front course) but nothing insurmountable. Sometimes qqs hot sand.

I grant you, it sounds a bit sport. But because we've taken the photo in some of the most rotten!

Km 40: turn-off to "Camp Tso Khar Deluxe" on the right (small sign).
6km track to reach the campsite (4582m).
can sleep in a tent camp (1200 Rps tent 2 tickets, dinner + breakfast included), or pitch a tent on the grass (100 Rps). Diner 150 rps, PJD 100 Rps (can negotiate cheaper), or provide qqs provisions. The only source of the site seems quite polluted but we have not been sick (filter + micropur). The lake is about 5 km of track is full of marmots, enchanting landscape at sunset. Nice to spend 24 hours on site and go around the lake to bike or hike in a bit.

Photo coming