When Doctor Green Mucus

Thiksey - Leh (twenty kilometers)

Not take notes. Approximately 7km climb very disagreeable before reaching Leh. Traffic not cool, qqs speeders to the con, lots of pollution. Difficult return to civilization. At large roundabout, you can follow "Leh market" (+ or - tt right a little to the left). Main street that climbs sec. We stopped in a guesthouse ("Nézel" or something like that) on this street on the left just after restaurant "Himalayan cuisine. 150Rps dble without the bathroom, a little dirty, then have changed. Otherwise, you can also exit from the roundabout just after the big prayer wheel, it goes directly onto Main Bazaar (it climbs perhaps less dry than the other side?).

Leh

There are many nice guesthouses in Upper Tukcha Road (left at Main Bazaar going back to Changspa), and also Changspa (but a little farther from the center). We stay at guesthouse Malpak, 200 the dbl with shared bath (very clean) and nice garden, 300Rps with bathroom in the room. Jigmet is the next most expensive but top (500 Rps). It is also not far from Ti-Sei is right. Better to arrive in the morning because of guesthouses bcp properties are complete (I guess that from September, there must be fewer people).



Qqs Recommended restaurants:
- Tibetan Kitchen on Fort Road, + + + + but must be reserved several days in advance for the evening! (Noon, no bp) (serves beer, very good Vegi cheese momos)
- Coffee Jeevan (The Book Lover's Retreat) left at the end of Changspa after the bridge, not far before the stupa, Vegetarian quality but no beer
- Grill 'n Curry: Indian great, right in front of Tibetan Kitchen (beer). Server likeable. Music sometimes a bit strong (but may be asked to drop). Our favorite (chicken malai tikka very good, excellent aluminum and Kashmiri pulao Vegi). Avoid
Shangrila yet recommended by Lonely Planet I think, really terrible. Nbx restaurants in gardens along Changspa, pleasant but not great food. Il Forno (balcony center) is not too bad. There is also

Wok Tibetan Kitchen on Main Bazaar (above Kodak) for Tibetan eat too much. Also barbecue skewers face Dzomsa evenings only (15Rps the skewer).

For pdj, we often went to the Pumpernickel German Bakery (terrace, large pdj with potatoes, omelet, toast, tea or coffee for 75Rps). It was discovered too late that Dzomsa in Old Fort Road was also a delicious breakfast for up to 3 francs 6 sous (Ladakhi bread for 2 rps !!!).