Sunday, July 27, 2008

When Doctor Green Mucus

Thiksey - Leh (twenty kilometers)

Not take notes. Approximately 7km climb very disagreeable before reaching Leh. Traffic not cool, qqs speeders to the con, lots of pollution. Difficult return to civilization. At large roundabout, you can follow "Leh market" (+ or - tt right a little to the left). Main street that climbs sec. We stopped in a guesthouse ("Nézel" or something like that) on this street on the left just after restaurant "Himalayan cuisine. 150Rps dble without the bathroom, a little dirty, then have changed. Otherwise, you can also exit from the roundabout just after the big prayer wheel, it goes directly onto Main Bazaar (it climbs perhaps less dry than the other side?).

Leh

There are many nice guesthouses in Upper Tukcha Road (left at Main Bazaar going back to Changspa), and also Changspa (but a little farther from the center). We stay at guesthouse Malpak, 200 the dbl with shared bath (very clean) and nice garden, 300Rps with bathroom in the room. Jigmet is the next most expensive but top (500 Rps). It is also not far from Ti-Sei is right. Better to arrive in the morning because of guesthouses bcp properties are complete (I guess that from September, there must be fewer people).



Qqs Recommended restaurants:
- Tibetan Kitchen on Fort Road, + + + + but must be reserved several days in advance for the evening! (Noon, no bp) (serves beer, very good Vegi cheese momos)
- Coffee Jeevan (The Book Lover's Retreat) left at the end of Changspa after the bridge, not far before the stupa, Vegetarian quality but no beer
- Grill 'n Curry: Indian great, right in front of Tibetan Kitchen (beer). Server likeable. Music sometimes a bit strong (but may be asked to drop). Our favorite (chicken malai tikka very good, excellent aluminum and Kashmiri pulao Vegi). Avoid
Shangrila yet recommended by Lonely Planet I think, really terrible. Nbx restaurants in gardens along Changspa, pleasant but not great food. Il Forno (balcony center) is not too bad. There is also

Wok Tibetan Kitchen on Main Bazaar (above Kodak) for Tibetan eat too much. Also barbecue skewers face Dzomsa evenings only (15Rps the skewer).

For pdj, we often went to the Pumpernickel German Bakery (terrace, large pdj with potatoes, omelet, toast, tea or coffee for 75Rps). It was discovered too late that Dzomsa in Old Fort Road was also a delicious breakfast for up to 3 francs 6 sous (Ladakhi bread for 2 rps !!!).

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Concrete Block Bath Tub

Lato - Thiksey

54km / +200 m / - 840m

throat out of Lato is very nice.




Km 23: Upshi, small-town ugly crossroads (junction to Tso Moriri right). Nbx restaurants. Very hot (38-40 °! Quite a change after the 3-4 ° of the day!).
Approximately 8km climb and hilly road.
Km 37: Karo (shops, ISD / STD). Great military zone, still ugly. "Turn-off to the left Hemis. Road to Sakti (Taktok and Wari La / Pangong Tso and Changla) on the right (need a permit).

Desert landscape before reaching Thiksey

Km 54: Arrival Thiksey (3419m). The only hotel is on the bottom right of the entrance of the village (250 Rps dble with the bathroom).


prayers at the monastery in the early morning, cool, few tourists (they come later).
NB: I returned to Thiksey two weeks later, prayer room cafie tourists at 6:30 in the morning, we had come across a group, disappointing ...

Friday, July 25, 2008

Swollen Parotid From Alcholism

Tso Khar - Lato

73km / +800 m / - 1297m

And to think that the day before I wrote in my notebook that I had finally found the journey less difficult, more affordable than expected ...
Km 6: return Tso Khar junction track / road from Leh
Km 14: Debring, qqs ruin whose stones are collected to build the road, so do not count too much sleep there.
Km 16: Col
early
Km 29: Creek (alt 5113m)
Km 34: Taglang La (5320m)


Rising neck seemed interminable. Slept badly the night before I fell asleep from the 1st km. I stopped for 10 minutes sleep. The tar yields fast enough room for the trail becomes more and more rotten, the last miles are a little less worse. I had to push the bike in places. Arivée neck punctured to 16h, not even stopped for a photo! Sophie was waiting for 1h. Very cold on top, hat + gloves + sweater + jacket! Top
tarmac descent, a real treat.
Km 38: End of tar. Road construction, alternating good and less good track ...
2 km tar a little lower (km 43 to 45) and 2 km track really rotten before they finally find bitumen (more or less good).
Km 66: Rumtse, 2 guesthouses / homestays (250 Rps dbl the) roadside
Km 70: village of Gya, very nice

Photos coming

Km 73: Lato (4067m evening / morning 4036m !!!), a homestay family run very friendly. Pit toilets, can have a jump of hot water for showering. Very clean. 100Rps/pers.
End runs very cool, probably thanks to a beautiful late afternoon light. All downhill. Qqs kids who say "one pen", but not really pushy, look more intimidating.
The hardest day since the start despite the elevation not that important on paper!

Updated July 2009 : There is now a side dhaba Debring ...

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Best Ruger 10 22 Upgrades

Pang - Tso Khar

46km / 327 m / - 267m

Hint caution before attacking the real thing:


7km climb out of tarmac to a small pass Pang ( alt 4724m), then great false flat down through the Morey Plains.

After whiskey, driving risky!

the small neck, 2 "roads" crossing the Plains, a + or - tarred and work on the left and super dusty track on the right. Choose the one you want ... We opted for tar, even if it does not last long, the trucks appeared to choose the right track. I had read horror stories almost on the crossing of the Plains, but whether the situation has greatly improved, there has to be accustomed to roads rotten! Tar spot left by the place packed to the track (maybe we were lucky, they had just "groom"?), Sometimes a bit of corrugated iron, stretches of sand qqs where you have to push the bike but I have not found it so terrible. A little wind anyway (front course) but nothing insurmountable. Sometimes qqs hot sand.





I grant you, it sounds a bit sport. But because we've taken the photo in some of the most rotten!

Km 40: turn-off to "Camp Tso Khar Deluxe" on the right (small sign).
6km track to reach the campsite (4582m).
can sleep in a tent camp (1200 Rps tent 2 tickets, dinner + breakfast included), or pitch a tent on the grass (100 Rps). Diner 150 rps, PJD 100 Rps (can negotiate cheaper), or provide qqs provisions. The only source of the site seems quite polluted but we have not been sick (filter + micropur). The lake is about 5 km of track is full of marmots, enchanting landscape at sunset. Nice to spend 24 hours on site and go around the lake to bike or hike in a bit.

Photo coming

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

How Long Can You Wear A Ball Gag

Gata Loops - Pang

49.5 km / 814 m / - 684m

Km 6: end Gata Loops (4580m)
Km 7: + small ledge on the left + source small cabin / concrete shelter on the right. Beautiful view.
Km 16: The Nake (4880m)
nake The Rising is a bit tiring because the slope is constantly changing, hard to find his rhythm. Pretty good tar.





Descent to km 20: Whiskey Nullah (4770m)

We have not seen a source in the downhill, but there has in the valley. There are now several Dabh at Whiskey Nullah. The site is transformed into plant because they bituminous tar the road leading up to the Lachalung (vehicles were waiting to pass, but no bike bp). Possible to camp but the site is not terrible (bcp smoke, smell of tar and diesel). Possible eat + sleep in Dabh. Finally, we would not have needed to move our fleet of 8 liters each.



Lachalung Km 26 La (5015m), rising progressively easier than I thought, no extra push this time.


Km 29: river and gorge scenery is absolutely beautiful.
Km 49.5: Pang (4507m). Check on Super Pang, gradual descent on the road fairly good condition (sometimes qqs track portions) qqs trucks into the ravine ... 1 of English has two meaty on the descent because her purse was taken down before and slapped the wheel. Result: bruises and scratches, it does well (good luck not to have plunged into the ravine), but front wheel out of order, must end in a truck + bus to Leh!






Pang A, ten Dabh. Tent camping is qqs km before Pang (but close road) or in river bed (grass) at Pang (turn right at the entrance Pang following the river) but extremely polluted. DO NOT DRINK water from the river, even boiled or treated. The Dabh are supplied with water by tanker truck. Housing Dabh a bit expensive (50 100Rps/pers cons usual). We chose the third Dabh on the right, held by a grandma helped by his grandson, son, very nice but average food. 2nd right: very good pancakes. We find
Indian Irish +

NB on the way back to the factory tar Whiskey Nullah seems to have (temporarily or permanently??) stopped its activity. The work side Lachalung are completed, the road is good. The site feels a little less bad. Remains whether the Dabh will be there next year.

Updated July 2009: no dhaba at Whiskey Nullah . No, no nothing, absolutely nothing, even the labor camps. In our passage to July 15, 2009, several rivers flowed into the valley (snowmelt)

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Kates Playground Stream Iphone

Sarchu Plains - beginning Gata Loops

38km / 395m + / - 953m from altimeter, but not as altitude = altitude arrival then departure ascent = gradient negative (I had to make a mistake in noting or calculate).

Stage set for short rest before tackling the major passes. Purpose of the day: get as close to the lens of tomorrow (The nake).
Km 8: Sarchu Dabh, a little dirty
min after Sarchu nice and pretty good on the whole road. Owls landscape once again.

approximately Km 33: camping spot potential (paths are not up close) on the right above the road Km 34
: Start Gata Loops, gradual climb switchbacks, tar
Km 38: camping spot on the right (alt 4387m), rock shelters, but still quite windy. Very nice but bring water.

The Irish + Indians are one day to rest before long Sarchu step Pang. The American is suffering from acute mountain sickness and should start on Keylong. We are pleased to have chosen the night before camping in the Plains because Sarchu is a bit ugly. Good breakfast and noon to Sarchu full of water because anything before Pang a priori. (Eventually we will give wrong). Tar Day! Camping in the Gata Loops really top.

Monday, July 21, 2008

Quotations On Lamp Lighting

Patseo - Sarchu Plains

55km / 1065m + / - 500m

Km 6: End of tar and track start really rotten
Km 10: Zing zing bar, a hole lost ugly. 1 large hangar. Ravito water but nothing else
Km 16: Dabh welcome and end of the runway mega rotten! (Alt 4288m)



Km 31 Baralacha La (4841m)


Top down on the super nice tar.
Km 37: Barakpur Dabh
Km 37 to 47: Track hyper rotten in places, difficult descent to me that not mountain bike. Qqs crossing fords.
Km 47: Finally tar! Beautiful landscapes.







Welcome to the Paradise of India!

Km 49: the first tent camp in Sarchu Plains
We camped near a tent camp (approx 55 km, alt 4384m) to enjoy the restaurant and try a hot shower away from wind. Possibility of staying in the camps (for info, return, we paid 800 Rps for 4 people including 2 camp in tents, 2 in our Salewa, dinner and breakfast for up to 4 inclusive).



RMQ: To me that does not bike, bike really hard in the first part of the rise of the Baralacha (before which I know the Dabh name), then very gradual ascent to the pass on good tar, a real treat. Top top down, and again rotten track (dirt, scree). End of travels on tar. A beautiful day.

NB: we are ironed
1 month + later back down on Manali, tar has made good progress, especially in the parts most rotten side Zing Zing Bar and the other side of the neck to Kilanga Sarai.