July 18 (continued)
51km / 717 m / - 929m
We thought Grampoo sleep and leave the next morning but Grampoo is nothing more than a crossroads between the roads Manali - Leh and Spiti. And then a nice downhill tarmac is too tempting after 2 days of track so we started to 14h after a good rice-dal, thinking to only thirty miles. Belle
descent to 5.5 km (3183m) A serving of super
macadam (50km / h!) And approx 7km track
Km 18: bitumen again!
Km 19: Sissu end of the bitumen. Large town unpleasant, very dusty, trucks coming down like crazy. Opportunity to sleep (1 hotel)
Then + Or - bitumen / correct track.
NBx villages / water. Qqs passages rotten.
Tandi Great down to the bottom along the river (not take notes on distances and altitudes because it was late).
Attention petrol station before Leh last at Tandi (possible to find kerosene for the stove in between Keylong and Leh Dabh, but not necessarily obvious). We sought shelter from km 30 but found nothing. Qqs camp with tents Tandi behind the gas station, not very appealing! Then
qqs km gradual rise up Keylong road in good condition. We stayed in the first guesthouse on the upper road (Niwa guesthouse or sth like that), friendly staff but not terrible site (road work). It's better to continue a little (400-500m), there is a nice guesthouse on the right (Sumrila Guesthouse), very clean, the food is great. Otherwise, I recommend the Hotel Tashi Delek (or guesthouse?) In the street below, but apparently more expensive. We met Pascal, a cyclo Irishman who goes to Leh, and a couple of Polish stock with panniers and trailer, loaded as they were traveling for years.
At Keylong, several internet cafes, connection but sometimes difficult or impossible (NbSe cuts electricity). Ditto for the ISD.
We took our first day-off (0 km cycling) since the beginning of the trip! Qqs provisions for the journey: 1 package Blédine ("Cérélac") for breakfast for fruit, vegetables 1 package (very good). Packets of vegetable soup + Maggie. 1kg tsampa. Boiled potatoes for dinner (with soup). Dried fruit, hard boiled egg, banana and chapatis for lunch. RMQ: you can "save" qqs kg of food if you eat and sleep in the Dabh. The mobile phone
going fairly well (Airtel + BSNL). That was the last of the trip for us before you return to Keylong and Manali late August (no roaming in Jammu-Kashmir).
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