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Because I'm worth it

In Iran, the Islamic dress is de rigueur for women (even foreign), and the "Pasdaran (Revolutionary Guards) are there to ensure the proper observance of this rule. However, if you imagine that the Iranian all are veiled from head to foot, you are very wrong.
is that over the years, they have demonstrated a limitless imagination to stay feminine. So the colorful
have gradually replaced the black headscarf, sliding inch by inch, sometimes not extend more than the bun on which it rests, and the tunic (to hide behind) has become too bent to hide anything.

. ... And here I am not talking about makeup (sometimes a bit extreme for my taste).

short, even after a year here, I'm still amazed see so many "letting go", especially in the posh streets of Tehran. ... Finally, an attraction to this city!

To go even further, one of the latest fads is to pass into the hands of plastic surgeons, mainly for a nose job (for whatever reason, they complexed above).
Thus we see more and more young girls (some men too) proudly wearing the new nasal appendage. Some are even in the ostentatious: the more they saw, the better! ... Unfortunately!

is a nose redone also became a sign of social status: there are those who have done (not mine, is that it is not free everything), and those who may never be.

Well, finally ... last have found a solution: they are for a few days a piece of tape on the nose (just to say that they, too, they did), then at the lack of enthusiasm their girlfriends discovering this new nose, explaining that the change was only slight.

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Press Review

past few weeks I try to read the official press Iran (the English), history of the news about the country where I live.
After each session, I tell myself that, really I am lucky to live in a country so wonderful when everything works perfectly while in France, there are "frequent street battles as the quality of life deteriorates every year "(it was for France yesterday, and I tell you what has been taken not Israel or the U.S.).

Anyway ... this is not where I wanted to come.

Yesterday, I came across an article in the "Company" on stress. I like how the book:

http://www.iran-daily.com/1387/3358/html/society.htm

Briefly in French, it gives "the are people who believe in God are less susceptible to stress and anxiety. According to a study published in the journal Psychological there is a significant difference between the brains of a believer and that of a non-believer . The article finally concludes that believers " less stressed when they make mistakes . All this

puzzled me, and I asked myself the whole night full of metaphysical questions:

• Was it really necessary to go open brain just for that?

• Researchers have they really nothing else to do (while the larger problem of hair growth is still not resolved)?

• If we had also analyzed the brain of a beer drinker recurring, it would he presented the same symptoms of insensitivity to stress,

And most important:

• If believers are less stressed when they do anything, that he explains why Mullah n ' have no remorse about the way they run this country?

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Local shops

When you need to buy something in Iran, you have virtually no choice but to go into a tiny little shops that swarm the streets or in bazaars.

Their size does not exceed rarely the area of a room at the "Formula 1", and despite that, we come to find practically anything, even more improbable.
is that every corner is used to poke indiscriminately as many products as possible (and it is better to apply directly to the owner before going to disturb his store).

Proof? Here is a picture of a small stationery made in Shiraz.

Well then, I confess ... this is a bit extreme.

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Administration

Facing administration Iran can sometimes take on the ultimate punishment. Fortunately for me, most of the approaches is supported by the local branch of the company where I work. Everything is transparent, or ... almost.

Shortly after my arrival, he had still retrieve my personal belongings that were waiting to customs at the airport in Tehran. This time, no way to scroll, ....

Given the immensity of the task, someone from the local branch accompanied me to guide me through the maze of official and unofficial Iranian customs. To be honest, my role is summed up very quickly and stupidly follow the sign to where it asked me to sign.

would be difficult to explain exactly where and what I went through. Imagine, however, an army of officials in offices worthy of the 50s, says he can not do anything until there is the stamp "Tip" on the form "machine" that must be initialed by a responsible some (but not here), or by his supervisor (but unwilling to stop his game of "solitary" reckless on his PC).

In practice and in numbers, it gives roughly this:

• First destination, the offices of "Iran Air" for the location of the trunks: 4 wickets and 30 minutes later, we go for ...

• the main building of customs or focus more rows of officials. After 2h00 of palaver, we finally know exactly where my trunks. So ... the destination.

• "Main Warehouse" chase between boxes to be sure of finding the right Customs (who is not looking too, but who is, coincidentally, also in high demand). Here it is finally my trunks! But no question of taking them, only the inspection. So back to ...

• main building. After 45 minutes from office to office, we finally gives the right form to go pay for customs clearance in the ...

• "Public Warehouse. Good pace: branches marching at high speed ... until a guy comes and gives a stack of newspapers day for staff (which has profoundly reduced our yield). It gives us lots of new documents and destination ....

• "Main Warehouse" we finally released my 7 trunks quickly put in a truck rented for the occasion. Here it is, we can start by ...

• "Control Inspection Dept." Verifies that the person who 15aine forms and pieces of paper of all kinds are properly filled / stamped / initialed.

short, after 9 hours and 20aine offices visited, we were finally able to leave with the trunks, trunks ... which unfortunately proved not to be all mine (mine were waiting quietly in Brazil. ... French logistical error).

there are days like this ....

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Soon spring

Ouch ... re-reading my last 2 articles, I realized that I was not very accommodating with my host country. So today, to avoid offending the sensibilities again, I'll do the politically correct ... is that I need to renew my visa soon!

If one day you visit to Iran, try to find a small shop with 3 or 4 in front mixers. There is no harm in busy streets (the "Vali-Asr" in Tehran, for example).

These small shops selling, among other things, fresh fruit juice when warm weather arrives, ... and as it becomes the case right now in Iran, ...

Personally, I advise you VERY, VERY STRONGLY melon juice (but there are also banana, mango, watermelon, ....).

I've heard them say Bouaaahh, melon juice!

Well no, it's really pretty! Personally, I did a course last season, and I intend to repeat this year.

C are melons are grown here (even Iran is one of the biggest producers of the gourd). They have neither the same shape (more elongate), or the same color (green inside) than those produced in France ... and believe me, they are mostly much better too!

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Allo land, Iran by Mahmoud

It escaped no one, Iran right now commemorates the anniversary of the Islamic Revolution (30 years this year). And like every year, this is accompanied by announcements of any kind to illustrate the advanced countries. This type of statement has become almost a tradition here, where the government and major industrial countries compete imagination.

This year, openings between hospitals or various sports, we had sent the first Iranian satellite in space.
Moving forward, the government also promised a stealth aircraft in mid 2009, and will, I give the bull ... .. an astronaut in 2021 (that was in the newspaper "Iran Daily" last week).

All this, of course, enabled the dignitaries of the country to be proud of this achievement, and prove, if necessary yet again, the benefits of the Islamic revolution, .... in short, a good big propaganda operation sensible distract Iranians from their everyday problems (that is still easier to announce it than saying that there is more money in the coffers, and he'll have to stop the subsidies on rice, gasoline, electricity, ... ..).

Like all Iranian announcements of the moment, it was accompanied by loud cries of terror of the Western governments that have held up this time the specter of Iranian strikes ....

Bein see!

can put many things on the backs of Iranian apparatchiks, but not the madness. They put their hands on the riches of the country 30 years ago, and especially not going to risk losing everything in a direct conflict with the West, conflict they know a lost cause despite their vindictive speech.

And then, casually, these knee-jerk reactions of our governments are only fueling the paranoid discourse of good old Mahmoud. So please, let them self-congratulation before their Iranian rocket 100% (by the way thank you to the North Koreans have provided the party), their Iranian satellite 100% (thank you to the Russians having manufactured). All this is pure propaganda internal ... even the Iranians (who are not in power) are not stupid (... well not all).

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Is good? Naqsh-e Rostam

I do not pretend to be a globetrotter, but I still dragged my gaiters in a lot of countries, and as my pale complexion computer does not allow me to merge into the mass, I am often accosted by the quidam local wondering if it's going, where I come from, and then usually if I know Zidane.

The Iranians are no exception to the rule. Even if some ask me news of Zidane, the third question is more often about what I think of their country. I'm not saying it never happens elsewhere, but Iran is the only place where I was asked this so often and so quickly into a discussion ...

This question, "Is Iran Good? "I was puzzled at first. I even wondered if it was a trick question raised by a secret police for any test me. And did not really want to finish the job for criticizing the government, I replied without hesitation "Yes, it's great," .... I then slip away as quickly as possible.

course, all this was pure paranoia on my part (at the frequency where I was asked this question would have required an army of agents just for me, and as I was ... not an isolated case ...).

I logically come to believe that the Iranian was just very curious about how his country is perceived ... Nay ...



In fact, if you have the misfortune to hesitate or to answer " not everyday "(which can happen after 2 hours of plug in Tehran), the caller will make a frown and you can not ignore immediately after.

is that Iran is proud his country. Often it is very excessive even when he speaks of its cities, its mosques, its history, its poets, and ... some time too. Through this question, it is expected that abounds in this sense, what happened to me ... sometimes very difficult.

must say that sometimes tends perch, especially with the kind of variations:

• "Is good live in Tehran? "I hesitate: Indeed nothing is more pleasant to walk through town, stopping at a sidewalk cafe and enjoy the sun ... ... Oh yeah, it's true: Tehran, there is no real coffee, so no terraces, anyway no place to put a deck saw the cars take center stage, and anyway, it's too polluted for, not least, think staying out longer.

• " Iran Is Better Than France? "Ben would like ... I'm gonna ask my wife what she thinks, she is arrested from time to time by the Pasdaran because his coat is too short.

• " Is There Such A great place in your country? "when I went to the Tang-e Vashi : it's true that Paris, Mont Saint Michel, or gorges of Ardeche, it's gnognotte next.

short, any time the Iranians may seem a bit arrogant ....

Finally, ... it has good sides too ...

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A 5 miles from Persepolis, is a hill where graves were dug four monumental crosshair. They are based on texts that cover much of their frontage to the tombs of the ancient Persian kings Darius I, Xerxes I, Artaxerxes I, and Darius II, the same who built Persepolis.

Below them, several reliefs were added by a dynasty more contemporary: the Sassanid who ruled Iran in the 3rd century AD. Their main result of glory was to have defeated the Romans and took control of part of the Eastern Roman Empire. One of the largest frescoes relate to that event.

The third building is a Zoroastrian temple (the state religion during this period) or a sacred flame would burn forever. The building was built 2400 years ago.

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Persepolis, or "Takht-e Jamshid (the Throne of Jamshid)

If there is an essential place to visit in Iran, it is this: the remains of the ceremonial capital of an empire ancient Persia which ranged from the Mediterranean to the Indian Ocean

Its construction began in - 521 BC during the reign of Darius the first, and then was supplemented by its many successors. Well Some buildings have been influenced by the style of Greek, Egyptian or Mesopotamian (then under Persian rule), Persepolis has its own architectural identity. Thus, we understand, by walking between the doors and monumental columns, which are located in one of the cradles of antiquity at the same level as the Egyptian or Greek civilizations.
Despite Alexander the Great, who destroyed it partly -331 BC, and the ravages of time, the site is still impressive and demonstrates the mastery of architects and engineers of that time .

One of the buildings, reconstructed by a German archaeologist in the twentieth century, we also show the colors that were wooded at the time of their palace splendor.

a personal point of view, I was also surprised by the development of the site are no cars or shops around screaming, no son electric dangle here and there! It might sound completely stupid, but if all the monuments of Iran could be preserved like this, I would not have to always edit my photos before uploading

... More info on Persepolis: link

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Shiraz

Shiraz is regarded by Iranians as the city of poets and gardens ... for me is one where I made a trip back in time. From the first step in the city center, I felt to find myself in the pictures made by my parents in the 1970s. Everything then reported: the streets, people, their car, the same colors ... sometimes a little tarnished by time.

Unlike other cities visited, Shiraz is less strict (presumably less religious), and this translates into less sad outfits elsewhere: exit black clothes, hello flashy shirts, trousers leg eph., and pumps (fake) croc ... Add to that a few old American sedans have survived the revolution, and Table is almost perfect. Personally, I love ... I even took the opportunity to go get a banana from a local hairdresser, ...

course, Shiraz has obviously other attractions: a medieval castle, Typical bazaar, and, indeed, gardens (including one or rests Hafez, one of the most famous Persian poets), but it is mainly a starting point to visit the famous ancient city of Persepolis, ...

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Women's football in Iran

If someone had told me that one day I see women's football competition in the strict Islamic Republic of Iran, I really struggled to believe, and yet ...

few months ago, Iran has organized the "First Islamic Women Soccer Club Competition "in Tehran. The competition was

meet:
- clubs and national teams Iranian (first team, hope ...)
- a selection of Azerbaijan
- a selection of Algeria,
- a selection of Syria
- a selection of Afghanistan (must not be easy to run with a burka) .


Although the event took place in relative indifference (no advertising, stadium without spectators ...), it is still welcome the initiative: I'm not sure what kind of competition could have occurred some years ago ....

... .. well not too much, because, presumably, they were just forced our hand ....

Indeed, according to some unofficial sources, the Federation Internationale de Football Association (FIFA) would have required Iran to hold international matches female Iranian territory, otherwise, some grants or agreements have been suspended.

Neither one, nor two, Iran would have mounted an official tournament between several countries ... (a little faster maybe because in the end only the Algerian team and Azeris were present).

Casually, perhaps we should let FIFA deal the Iranian nuclear issue, it might be more effective ...

sporting side, I will not comment on arbitration not very objective and somewhat limits the methods to win the Iranian teams. Anyway, this has not prevented the two foreign teams to qualify for the final brilliantly .... Final won by Algeria by a score of 3 to 1 at the end of a game fairly played.

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Valley of the Assassins

exists in the French language some words from the Persian more or less. "Assassin" in fact gone. To be exact, the word does not come from the Persian but Arabic "Hashishin (Hashish smoker). That said, it is closely linked to the country's history.

I already see some say that he would emigrate from here rather than in Belgium, but no, ... Iran is not the country of smoking hashish. It's just that the famous sect of "Assassins" was founded in the eleventh century in northern Iran today.

To summarize, this sect had an important role throughout the Middle East at that time. She was extremely feared by world leaders as capable of striking directly at the top of the state. His "emissaries" to whom it was in paradise before taste (this is where the Hashish), did not hesitate to sacrifice to reach their target. For more details, take a look on Wikipedia.

But back to our pink elephants ...

This community built several fortresses on the slopes of the Alborz. The castle of Alamut is the best known of them. He no longer has its former greatness, but it remains a mythical place for history buffs (and the Iranians also in view of site traffic). Even now, the castle commands respect, and we guess that what could be the feeling of travelers as they passed close by: the top of a rocky outcrop, it seems invincible today.

The second is broader, and somewhat better preserved than the castle of Alamut. The site is even more beautiful because it overlooks a lake (but is not seen in the photo damage).

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Mr. Tang

Since my arrival in Iran, I am always asked what could well be the atmosphere in a cinema hall here, especially between men and women.

You can imagine, since the Islamic revolution, every effort is made to separate the two sexes, and I did not imagine the mullahs allow men and women to be together freely in a dark room at that.

So I decided to go see this ....

There is a lot more cinema operations in Iran, most rooms are old who survived the revolution, 70's atmosphere ... guaranteed.

Listed programming, it is very rare to have to show western films (or so censored ... very censored). So not much choice, I'm facing what seemed an Iranian film history.

I fulfill the admission fee (10 000 Rials or 70 € cents), and here I am in the room ,....

Well, the cinema in Iran is like the bus in front of men and women behind, there is no choice. Couples are still together but in a very specific area (behind the women in my film).

And to enforce this rule (and others), a guard convicts is constantly in the room, flashlight in hand, and stations with refractory ...

At the same time, fortunately it is there that one, because a movie theater in Iran, it sometimes resembles a train station: it comes, it come out, talking loudly, that answers the phone (It also called sometimes), smoke it (despite the big sign "No Smoking" in the room) .... In short, a big mess!

Well, for the atmosphere, it may be different in other theaters, mine was apparently quite popular.

In fact, see some single women and couples met me quite relieved I had in fact prepared for the worst (for men only sessions, separated couples, or even see women cloistered in a grid box), ... is that they are capable of anything here, even more absurd!

Regarding the film, I did not understand everything (the Persian and me, it's always 2), but obviously, it was a good propaganda film: the heroic Iranians protecting a Koran against the evil invaders, Arabs, Christians (I had no knowledge that the cross-European ever fucking a foot in Iran!?) and Mongols. Flags Iranians and bombastic music galore.

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e Cinema Vashi

For those who have decided to spend a few days in Tehran (despite what I said), here is a possible tour in the area.

The place is located 80 km (still) east of the city in a former royal estate. It's called "Tang é Vashi, and as he is one of the favorite outings téhérannais Friday, many people know (you will So just ask).

The first part of the walk is more interesting: you have to walk out of the riverbed along a narrow gorge. In the middle of the road, it is surprising to see a large mural carved out of the mountainside. It represents a hunting scene from the period Quadjars (Persian dynasty of 19 th century).

The passage then leads to a small grassy plain, place all the more valuable it is rather rare on the pay of the Alborz. The Iranians took the opportunity to indulge in their favorite pastime on weekends (the picnic).

At the other end of the valley, there is another passage that ends with a small waterfall. Many are experimenting to get a ride directly below. It's extremely refreshing to see the Iranians and especially the women (some yet veiled from head to foot) will go to splash in the water in great bursts of laughter ... a little crazy, it can not be wrong.

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Ramadhan

I was said before leaving for Iran, "you see, spend the month of Ramadan in a Muslim country, it's great: there are decorations everywhere, and it's party every night."

Well I just spent my second Ramadan here, and I still do not see what I can tell much about it. The only thing notable is that all restaurants are closed during the day (it's a requirement under penalty: see link below). Apart from that, "Nothing."

I have not seen any particular event or decoration and there was no more agitation during Eid El Fitr (end of fast and feast day, or everyone should go to the mosque).

Well, like everything else in Iran, I guess it happens mainly inside houses and apartments, but still, what ... Quiet!

I do not really give any explanation for this "non-event." For some Iranians, it may simply be because they do not really follow (I see a lot to eat in their office, or even directly into their car), but for the other (more conservative) I do not know. This may be related to a difference of religion between Shiite and Sunni (Shia religious parties with their very own, tuning out perhaps other holidays of Islam?).

Here also a small AFP despatch on the subject (they really got all the cops here): http:/ / www.metimes.com/Politics/2008/09/10/iran_closes_eateries_over_violating_ramadan/afp/

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Persona non grata

In my list of places to visit include a good number of world capitals and New York in part (well, OK, this is not a capital, but it's like).

Only now, with my passport filled with Iranian visas (with a couple of Russian visas, Chinese and Vietnamese), I'm afraid (perhaps wrongly ) long enough to have to explain to U.S. Customs. So for this holiday, instead of New York, we went to Hong Kong this year.

And Hong Kong ... .. it's the opposite of Tehran: the sea, a thick layer of greenery on the surrounding mountains, shopping malls everywhere, ... and especially fun to hear people in the streets, see women without veils, short ... freedom!

After a few days, I had even forgotten that I lived in Iran. ... To pass through customs to go to China Continental (the real one, not that of Hong Kong which has a status particular).

And then, bam! The return to the harsh reality. The Chinese customs was obviously very exhilarated to have a passport full of visas Iranian hands. After asking me what I was doing in Iran (work), he calls his boss: "Irani" here, "Irani" by then ... and here I am escorted to the police station in the airport by a good half dozen guys in uniform. Very impressive I must say!

And I would say "birds of a feather flock together: between 2 countries known to apply human rights to the letter, I will go smoothly here!" ... bah and I am planted!

Well, after a thorough search of my bag (20 minutes to 2 anyway), the search ". JPG" in my PC (?), all without any explanation, I could still pass through customs.

So you think ... New York ... I try or not?

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CHiPs

There is something which I never expected given the ambient mess on the roads in Iran was to make me stop here traffic offenders.

Admittedly, I never was a champion of compliance (I only have 4 points on my license), but the Iranians are even more so ... with the addition of a certain passivity of the local constabulary.

So, back to my case, I still found a way to make me stop here 5 or 6 times, mostly for speeding.

Here is what happens during a debriefing of a foreigner in Iran (take for example my last experience):

That day, while returning from a Excursion outside Tehran, I made myself take for exceeding the speed limit (to my great regret, the cops also have radar here): It beckons me to stop, I do it and tidy my good old 405 the low side. I take my papers and walked towards the police vehicle (here, the cop is a little lazy, it does budge the air-conditioned vehicle in which he is).

"Hello Mr. agent " I say in French ... always in French. And then, I confess ... I always delights of this little moment where I see the face of my interlocutor decompose.

Generally, after having vainly searched for a potential hello (a colleague, a passing glance ... any anything that can talk them into a foreign language with me), and not knowing what to do, he tries it luck in Persian with big gestures, lack of a better ....

A little sadistic (I guess even when he tells me), I make him understand that I do not pick a word, and finally the discussion (if you can call it that) goes.

Well, this time, my cop me jabbers "Speed" and "Card" (not my day! I came across a "bilingual"). I hand him my papers a bit disappointed. And then .... Second effect Kiss Cool. I see him make great sighs before my international license. It must be said that the IDP is written in full language, but not in Persian, and when it is not read Latin letters, it is even harder. Briefly, after some hesitation, he makes me and beckons me to look elsewhere if there is.

You tell me: in all countries is the same! The cops are not known for their knowledge of other languages.

But here in force to limit drastically the number of foreign, often the cops are totally taken by surprise when it falls on us. It is even more true outside of Tehran.

Finally ... I'm not complaining. It saved me anyway any verbalization for a year.